Here are some tips from Fishinbro, taken from his last Flounder catching post:

* Use your weight according to your current and rock structure. Too much weight is good for multiple lines but bad for covering more area. Whenever possible use split-shots to get your bait to the bottom but allow them to move freely and cover more area.

* Use smaller baits. Smaller baits will stimulate more of a variety of hits, i.e. mangos, grunts, etc. Larger baits will end up dying on the hook and eaten by crabs or picked to death by pinfish

* Constantly jig your baits (unless you see some chewing going on). This keeps them free from rocks, structure, etc.

* When you start getting hits, dont jerk back right away. Especially on the smaller flounder. It takes them a while to chew, and sometimes you will not even know they are on. Error on the side of waiting longer with them.

* The smaller the hook the better. I know many that swear by circle hooks. I also use circle hooks for redfish and other species. For Pompano and Flounder I use KAHLE HOOKS. A #2 Kahle hook works awesome for these little baits. Fish with a smaller mouth radius, i.e. mangos, smaller flatties, etc. have no trouble sliding over that hook.

Tammy wrote:

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You put bait on a hook, cast your line, sit back and enjoy the beauty around you until your rod bends.

Now THAT is basic.  Good show young lady, good show.  Alright, I guess I can share a LITTLE info for that quick witted response.

Lets talk about bait rigs and rigging:

Bait-  I prefer live mud minnows as my bait of choice (although mullet, pinfish, pigfish, or anything else that swims will work as well) I rig my bait naturally, and usually hook the bait through the lips starting under the mouth and working the hoop up.  This allows the bait to swim normally (kinda) and keeps the hook out of the ground and oysters (usually).I like my bait lively, and usually cast for it.  If you use pinfish, carry a small pair of scissors, and cut the dorsal fin off.  This releases scent into the water, and makes it easier for your target species to eat.

Rigs and rigging- Ok, there are a few schools of thought with rigging, and it depends on how you want to fish.  The basic premise of rigging for Flounder is that you want your bait to remain near the bottom.  2 foot of leader ain't gonna cut it.  (sure you will occasionally catch one, but remember the bait needs to be on or near the bottom)

1st method - Carolina rig.  My method of choice.  Here is the basics of a carolina rig    line----round or oval inline weight--glass bead---swivel--- leader material---hook.  Lets break down this rig, share the why's and how's. 

First you have your line.  I use 30-40 pound braid.  Braid is good as I can run as much line as if I am using 8# test, and I get the line strength of 30 or 40# test.  The areas you will be fishing will most likely have structure/ oysters near, so that's why I like braid.

Next is the round or oval inline weight.  The key with weight is that you want it to move freely on your line, and you only want enough to get to the bottom and make it tough for your bait to swim TOO far away.  You still want him to move, just to have to struggle to move.  I use more weight in heavier current situations, and less in the creeks.  With the weight not tied to anything, the Flounder won't spook nearly as much and drop the bait.

Third is the glass bead.  The glass bead plays 2 important roles.  First, and foremost it acts as a protector of your knot so the weight doesnt break it down, and second, it acts as an active sounding device.  Each time you reel a little, a small tink is audible underwater (always use glass, dont skimp on cheap plastic beads)

Fourth is the swivel.  Any ol swivel will do.  No science here, just make it strong enough that it won't pop under the weight of a nice fish.

Fifth is the leader... Real important here...Important enough to boldface... 6"-8" of Flurocarbon 20# leader.  Note 2 things are boldfaced the 6"-8" part (remember you want your bait hovering near the bottom, and the Flurocarbon part.  Makes it invisible to fish, and has excellent abrasion resistance.  If you fish with mud minnows, you can lengthen the leader(as they stay near the bottom), but with mullet, keep em' on a short leash.  Note- if you use the gear I suggested, and get hung up in an oyster bed, the nice thing is that normally, you will only lose your leader and hook, not the weight, bead and swivel!

Sixth, and last is the hook.  There are differing schools of thought on this one, but several things remain constant.  Small hook (I prefer a 2/0 circle) and a thin wire hook is a must to keep your bait alive and frisky longer.  I like the circle, as I can be confident in letting the fish eat that even if it is undersize, I wont have a problem getting a hook out, and it won't be lodged in his stomach.

Now with a carolina rig, you have 2 things going for you.  First, you can reel it in (slowly) , and cover that ground, but secondly, your bait, swimming on the leader creates a second cone of prospecting for you with no work.  With flounder, often I will dead stick several poles, and work one at a time SLOWLY to the boat.  Alternating which rod I reel in to give each a chance.  A wise man once told me if you think you are reeling too slow...slow down... Remember...Flounder are lazy.  I have seen them follow bait right to the boat, and because I was slow enough, they will often hit right under the boat.

Lee also incorporates a small gold spinner just in front of the bait.  If you are fishing in faster moving water (like the coast guard station), this can also be a great attractant, and an alternative method to get the fish excited about your bait.

I have also caught flounder using a jig head with live bait on it.  This is also an effective method, but I tend to prefer the bait in a more natural presentation.  People also use gulp, spinners, white rubber grubs with the long fluttery tales, etc, but I am by no means an expert on any of those methods although I have seen fish caught on all of them.


Thats all for now...   More info = more insider knowledge.  Share some flounder info, and I will share more.

Excellent! Excellent! Now we are getting somewhere... The next post I make will elaborate on their locations. How to find your own flattie hole, what to look for, and where. (I won't give up my best spots, but I will arm you with enough information to find em' for yourself). Keep sharing! Need more info!

Frankk wrote:

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I'm not to sure about this, but here goes. Click on the link below and go to "Videos" then click on "Flounder Wars". Now a disclaimer. I don't know Bob (Red) or Rick . They are Texas people and are a little different. (don't tell em where I live please)

http://www.nightstalkerguideservice.com/

Hope you enjoy this and best regards,
Frankk

Awesome stuff Frankk!  Thanks

Next we will talk about location, location, location...